How to BOOM in the treatment room! Tips for Maximum brow retention in record time.

Mar 03, 2021


 Consultation & Forms

  • Send the Medical Health form out before the appointment and as the client to call you if there is anything he/she has ticked ‘yes’ to.
  • Where available, ask an assistant or another staff member to fill in the consent forms with the client, talk to them about their expectations, and run through the aftercare in advance.
  • Split the consultation and treatment into 2 appointments if necessary. The treatment appointment will be much more efficient if you already know what pigment to use and what style of brow to draw.


  • Use whatever measuring tool is best for you and the job in hand (brow ruler/brow guide/freehand/brow mapping). Do not struggle with something that feels awkward.
  • Use the 80:20 method of drawing:
    • Quickly draw on the brows as best you can but stop at the point you normally check and tweak.
    • Ask the client to look at the brows and tell you which one she likes best and WHY
    • She will be telling you how to match the brows quickly without her realizing it! 
  • Utilize various methods to check/adjust symmetry:
    • Blocking technique
    • Round side of the face vs flat side of the face
    • Take a photograph and look at the 2D image
    • Look in the mirror at your client and check the 2D image
  • Limit the client’s exposure to the mirror. Always control what they see and when they see it.
  • Know your limits. Aim to draw in 20-30 minutes maximum. If drawing is taking longer than 45 minutes, do not proceed as your confidence will be undermined, as will the client’s confidence in you as a technician. 
  • If you proceed with a treatment that has been extremely challenging at the drawing stage, the chances of a complaint and subsequent additional treatments are very high, costing you more in the long run. 


  • Use good quality pigments with high concentrations of pigment powder to carrying agent (look for the amount of liquid at the top of the bottle as the powder and carrier will have separated)
  • Limit your choice. Split your pigments into light/medium/dark and only test a maximum of 4. With experience, you will get this down to 1 or 2.
  • Don’t involve your client too much in the choice. They do not have the education you have in terms of how the colour tones change when tattooed and healed under the surface of the skin.
  • Match the colour to the hair, give or take a few shades as required (eg some clients want to go a bit darker). 
  • Only look at the tone once you have decided on the shade. At this point, you can make your adjustments.


  • Maximum retention is achieved when your technique is nailed down! – SPEED/PRESSURE/POSITION/STRETCH/NEEDLE
  • Choose the correct needle for the treatment.
  • The smaller the needle, the cooler the pigment can look, so choose wisely.
  • Adjust your stretch to suit the canvas.
  • Move around the bed to ensure a comfortable working position. Stand if necessary.
  • Ensure freedom in the elbows, hands and wrists – do not body block.
  • Don’t work too deep. Super-slow/super-light is the best way. 
  • The faster you work (especially on lips and eyes), the more passes you will need to perform. The skin will become damaged and start to reject the colour, resulting in less retention.
  • Do not over-use numbing cream. The skin can only absorb so much product and you need that product to be pigment!
  • Colour bath whenever necessary, especially if the skin is bleeding a lot. You do not have to wait until the end of a treatment to do this.
  • Leave the colour bath on for up to 5 minutes at the end if you have struggled to get colour in during treatment. 
  • If you identify a ‘bleeder’ discuss the possibility of a 3rd treatment and they must absorb the cost of this, not you!


  • This is out of your hands, so you must be super-strict and thorough in your advice.
  • Dry skin will need balm. 
  • Oily skin should dry heal.
  • Stick to whatever aftercare works for you! Every technician will have different advice. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
  • Lymph should be wiped with sterile water every few hours. NEVER use saline pods.
  • Encourage your clients to use sunblock daily.

Clients must not apply any AHA products to their PMU


Karen Betts x


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